Rohit Bal, one of India’s most esteemed fashion designers, has passed away at the age of 63 following a prolonged illness.
The Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) announced his death via an Instagram post, stating that his contributions “redefined Indian fashion.”
As one of India’s pioneering designers, Bal played a crucial role in establishing fashion design as a glamorous and viable profession during the 1990s. Many who followed in his footsteps credit their success to his influence.
Although he had to take an extended break due to health issues, Bal made an emotional return to the fashion scene just weeks ago. An article in The Indian Express highlighted the importance of Bal’s presence, noting, “We will always need a Rohit Bal around to show what classic elegance is – and why it transcends generations.” He appeared frail but joyful alongside his models at the grand finale of India Fashion Week in October.
Bal was renowned for his deep understanding of Indian textiles and meticulous attention to detail. His innovative designs, which seamlessly fused India’s rich cultural heritage with contemporary style, gained popularity among Hollywood stars and supermodels alike.
Born in Srinagar, Kashmir, in 1961, Bal graduated with an honors degree in history from St. Stephen’s College in Delhi. He began his career working in his family’s export business before pursuing formal fashion education at the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT) in Delhi. He launched his own label in 1990 and opened multiple stores across India, the Middle East, and Europe.
On his website, Bal described himself as a designer who “combines the right mix of history, folklore, village craft, and dying arts to create imaginative and innovative masterpieces for catwalks and fashion talks.” In 1996, Time magazine recognized him as India’s “Master of Fabric and Fantasy.”
His designs attracted a wide audience, with Hollywood actress Uma Thurman and supermodels Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Pamela Anderson wearing his creations. Notably, tennis star Anna Kournikova walked the ramp at his Paris show in 2001.
Best known for his use of lotus and peacock motifs, Bal often worked with luxurious fabrics like velvet and brocade, creating elaborate designs inspired by Indian royalty and grandeur.
In addition to his fashion line, Bal endorsed a range of products, collaborated with textile giants like the Aditya Birla Group, and ventured into designing jewelry and luxury watches. He even launched a children’s line, believing that “children are a major consumer class in urban India.”
Bal designed costumes for the popular Indian game show Kaun Banega Crorepati (Who Wants to be a Millionaire?) and created outfits for British Airways cabin crew. In 2014, he debuted his first prêt line for online retailer Jabong.
“I want to separate Rohit Bal from the House of Bal—both in products and style, in expense and reach,” Bal explained in an interview. “Rohit Bal stores (there will be no prêt here) will be special. People come to me only for unique items—they want garments that are like handmade pieces of art. I have the ability to balance my creative and business inclinations.”
Bal’s characteristic flamboyance was evident in his vibrant designs, featuring dazzling silks embellished with intricate embroidery, sleek blouses, and taffeta skirts in a range of bright colors. “Fabric is the seed of designing a garment; it is the lifeblood of fashion,” he remarked, recalling the sensory memories of textiles from his childhood in Srinagar.
His idyllic upbringing was marred by regional violence, which prompted his family to move to Delhi. Bal fondly remembered his sartorial adventures starting at age 11 when he convinced his father to take him to a tailor to create his own cowboy pants adorned with tassels.
In addition to his fashion career, Bal also ventured into the restaurant business, designing the opulent interiors of Veda, one of Delhi’s upscale eateries.
He welcomed foreign brands like Armani or Hilfiger entering the Indian market, asserting, “They can’t do what I can with Indian designs.” His flamboyant lifestyle earned him the moniker “the bad boy of fashion” from the Indian media.
“People see me in photographs surrounded by beautiful models and think I’m a snobbish, high-maintenance designer focused solely on beauty and hedonism. When they meet me, they realize how false that perception is,” he shared.
